A different perspective

This morning I went with a group to experience the scenery of the Temple Mount again. The place was a bit more crowded: muslims gathering for study in their circles of plastic chairs in the garden, tourists snapping photographs, soldiers texting in a nonchalant pose at every gate. I went to sit at the northern end of the Dome complex looking into the tress, rose bushes, and grasses that are just beginning to faint from their spring green luster in the heat of the dry sunshine.

I was thinking back to my earlier surmise that the rocks are crying out in this place that seems so foreign to Christians, Zionists, and the few Jews that are allowed on the premises. The silence that seems like it should have the busy bustle of Temple activity was again what I expected to hear, but I noticed something else. There were birds chirping for all they were worth. Those crazy little creatures couldn't be stopped from singing their praise. Even the skeptical crow and the sneaking cat didn't stop them. They chirped away as if God was still in complete control of the land. And I thought to myself, maybe He is.

Hameshiach qam! Be'emet qam!

Saturday: 5 am. Got up to join the Roman Catholic procession for entrance into the Holy Sepulcher. At 6:30, a 3 hour resurrection mass began. A beaming man from Australia explained everything to us as we followed along in the 168 page translation mass order. Chapters of scripture were intonated - The Creation account, the Exodus account, Isaiah's Prophecies of one who would come to free Israel, and then the Resurrection accounts. A significant group of people were gathered, but the crowd was a beautifully void of tourists. This was a crowd that had come to worship He Who is risen from the dead.

The participants of the mass gathered their things and left, but we had another celebration to attend. Hundreds of police entered the Church and began setting up barricades. Within minutes the dozen of people that had stayed were joined by hundreds and then thousands of Armenian and Greek Orthodox believers. My companion Caleb warned me that it was going to be packed and people were going to be pushy. Of course, the Orthodox do not allow people to sit during a service, so there is no way to hold your ground. We started off in the second row but within an hour another 6 or 7 rows of people had nudged their way in front of us. By 11am my legs were at a 90 degree angle trying to hold back the crowd that was pushing from behind. Young adults and the elderly joined in shouting Khristós Anésti!(He is risen) Alithós Anésti! (He is risen indeed). By 12:30 I had given up my pressure to be squeezed from all directions. Every 15 minutes or so someone nearby would faint and the crowd would push them through to the medics across the barricades. Soon, the Greek and Armenian Orthodox Patriarchs processed around the tomb three times before entering. Shortly after one, the "Holy Fire" was seen inside the tomb, a flame that is said to come from heaven every year to be caught by the Patriarch. Torches were passed out with the holy flame and people scrambled to light their bundles of candles. The hundreds of flaming torches around me was bit scary. The fire extinguishers strapped to the backs of the countless crowd control officers were barely a comfort. I had just seen on of the most famous of the Orthodox traditions.

After a few hours of sleep I woke at 11:30 pm to make my way back to the Holy Sepulcher for the joint resurrection service. Less people made the event just a bit more peaceful as I watched from my perch halfway up a pillar. The processions of the various church leaders was followed by a trek to the roof where we joined the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. Here, the service was quiet, but every once in a while the paschal phrase was heard: Kristos Tenestwal! (He is risen) Bergit Tenestwal! (He is risen indeed). Many had been fasting since Friday afternoon and were now breaking that fast with a meal. One of them told us his testimony and invited us to join in the feast.

Our final stop was the garden tomb. We were the first in line for the 6:00 opening. This service was much more familiar. We sang a dozen hymns and were reminded about Thomas, the disciple who doubted. Yet even he, who had missed the first appearance of Jesus to the disciples was blessed with an intentional visit from the risen LORD. He is risen! He is risen indeed.

Hameshiach qam! (He is risen) Be'emet qam! (He is risen indeed).

The Suffering of Christ

Some may say it is disrespectful to be so blunt and academic, but I think some have lost the meaning of the passion of Christ by simply being naive to the horrific and graphic practice of crucifixion. Have we taken it for granted? Have we grown callous to the familiarity? I would hope that none of this is new to you, for those it is a call to remembrance. Do you know the actual cause of Christ’s death? I mean more than just crucifixion, but the actual cause of the stopped heart? Crucifixion was so common in the days of the gospel writers, that they ignore the details.

Luke 22 (the physician is the only gospel writer to record Christ’s sweat as drops of blood.)39 And He came out and proceeded, as was His custom to the Mount of Olives; and the disciples also followed Him. 40 When He arrived at the place, He said to them, “Pray that you may not enter into temptation.” 41 And He withdrew from them about a stone’s throw, and He knelt down and began to pray, 42 saying, “Father, if You are willing, remove this cup from Me; yet not My will, but Yours be done.” 43 Now an angel from heaven appeared to Him, strengthening Him. 44 And being in agony He was praying very fervently; and His sweat became like drops of blood, falling down upon the ground. 45 When He rose from prayer, He came to the disciples and found them sleeping from sorrow, 46 and said to them, “Why are you sleeping? Get up and pray that you may not enter into temptation.”

Although this is a very rare phenomenon, bloody sweat (hemohidrosis) may occur in highly emotional states. As a result of hemorrhage into the sweat glands, the skin becomes fragile and tender. Blood vessels break near the surface, mixing with the sweat. Jesus' actual blood loss probably was minimal. However, in the cold night air, it may have produced chills.

The language is matter-of-factly, but I wonder how we look at this story. Have we emphasized Christ’s divinity to the point that we don’t believe he truly suffered this much? Do we skim over this passage like it’s a miracle?

Matthew 26: 47 While He was still speaking, behold, Judas, one of the twelve, came up accompanied by a large crowd with swords and clubs, who came from the chief priests and elders of the people. 48 Now he who was betraying Him gave them a sign, saying, “Whomever I kiss, He is the one; seize Him.” 49 Immediately Judas went to Jesus and said, “Hail, Rabbi!” and kissed Him. 50 And Jesus said to him, “Friend, do what you have come for.” Then they came and laid hands on Jesus and seized Him. 51 And behold, one of those who were with Jesus reached and drew out his sword, and struck the slave of the high priest and cut off his ear. 52 Then Jesus said to him, “Put your sword back into its place; for all those who take up the sword shall perish by the sword. 53 “Or do you think that I cannot appeal to My Father, and He will at once put at My disposal more than twelve legions of angels? 54 “How then will the Scriptures be fulfilled, which say that it must happen this way?” 55 At that time Jesus said to the crowds, “Have you come out with swords and clubs to arrest Me as you would against a robber? Every day I used to sit in the temple teaching and you did not seize Me. 56 “But all this has taken place to fulfill the Scriptures of the prophets.” Then all the disciples left Him and fled. 57 Those who had seized Jesus led Him away to Caiaphas, the high priest, where the scribes and the elders were gathered together. 58 But Peter was following Him at a distance as far as the courtyard of the high priest, and entered in, and sat down with the officers to see the outcome. 59 Now the chief priests and the whole Council kept trying to obtain false testimony against Jesus, so that they might put Him to death. 60 They did not find any, even though many false witnesses came forward. But later on two came forward, 61 and said, “This man stated, ‘I am able to destroy the temple of God and to rebuild it in three days.’” 62 The high priest stood up and said to Him, “Do You not answer? What is it that these men are testifying against You?” 63 But Jesus kept silent. And the high priest said to Him, “I adjure You by the living God, that You tell us whether You are the Christ, the Son of God.” 64 Jesus said to him, “You have said it yourself; nevertheless I tell you, hereafter you will see THE SON OF MAN SITTING AT THE RIGHT HAND OF POWER, and COMING ON THE CLOUDS OF HEAVEN.” 65 Then the high priest tore his robes and said, “He has blasphemed! What further need do we have of witnesses? Behold, you have now heard the blasphemy; 66 what do you think?” They answered, “He deserves death!” 67 Then they spat in His face and beat Him with their fists; and others slapped Him, 68 and said, “Prophesy to us, You Christ; who is the one who hit You?”

Luke 22: 54 Having arrested Him, they led Him away and brought Him to the house of the high priest; but Peter was following at a distance. 55 After they had kindled a fire in the middle of the courtyard and had sat down together, Peter was sitting among them. 56 And a servant-girl, seeing him as he sat in the firelight and looking intently at him, said, “This man was with Him too.” 57 But he denied it, saying, “Woman, I do not know Him.” 58 A little later, another saw him and said, “You are one of them too!” But Peter said, “Man, I am not!” 59 After about an hour had passed, another man began to insist, saying, “Certainly this man also was with Him, for he is a Galilean too.” 60 But Peter said, “Man, I do not know what you are talking about.” Immediately, while he was still speaking, a rooster crowed. 61 The Lord turned and looked at Peter. And Peter remembered the word of the Lord, how He had told him, “Before a rooster crows today, you will deny Me three times.” 62 And he went out and wept bitterly.

The rigors of Jesus' ministry (that is, traveling by foot throughout the land) would have precluded any major physical illness or a weak general constitution. Accordingly, it is reasonable to assume that Jesus was in good physical condition before his walk to Gethsemane. However, during the 12 hours between 9 PM Thursday and 9 AM Friday, he had suffered great emotional stress (as evidenced by hematidrosis), abandonment by his closest friends (the disciples), and a physical beating (after the first Jewish trial), and a sleepless night.

Mark 15: 2 Pilate questioned Him, “Are You the King of the Jews?” And He answered him, “It is as you say.” 3 The chief priests began to accuse Him harshly. 4 Then Pilate questioned Him again, saying, “Do You not answer? See how many charges they bring against You!” 5 But Jesus made no further answer; so Pilate was amazed.

Luke 23: 6 When Pilate heard it, he asked whether the man was a Galilean. 7 And when he learned that He belonged to Herod’s jurisdiction, he sent Him to Herod, who himself also was in Jerusalem at that time. 8 Now Herod was very glad when he saw Jesus; for he had wanted to see Him for a long time, because he had been hearing about Him and was hoping to see some sign performed by Him. 9 And he questioned Him at some length; but He answered him nothing. 10 And the chief priests and the scribes were standing there, accusing Him vehemently. 11 And Herod with his soldiers, after treating Him with contempt and mocking Him, dressed Him in a gorgeous robe and sent Him back to Pilate. 12 Now Herod and Pilate became friends with one another that very day; for before they had been enemies with each other.

Mark 15: 6Now it was the custom at the Feast to release a prisoner whom the people requested. 7A man called Barabbas was in prison with the insurrectionists who had committed murder in the uprising. 8The crowd came up and asked Pilate to do for them what he usually did. 9"Do you want me to release to you the king of the Jews?" asked Pilate, 10knowing it was out of envy that the chief priests had handed Jesus over to him. 11But the chief priests stirred up the crowd to have Pilate release Barabbas instead. 12"What shall I do, then, with the one you call the king of the Jews?" Pilate asked them. 13"Crucify him!" they shouted. 14"Why? What crime has he committed?" asked Pilate. But they shouted all the louder, "Crucify him!" 15Wanting to satisfy the crowd, Pilate released Barabbas to them. He had Jesus flogged, and handed him over to be crucified.

Scourging Practices: Flogging was a legal preliminary to every Roman execution, and only women and Roman senators or soldiers (except in eases of desertion) were exempt. The usual instrument was a short whip (flagellum) with several single or braided leather thongs of variable lengths, in which small iron balls or sharp pieces of sheep bones were tied at intervals. Occasionally, staves also were used. For scourging, the man was stripped of his clothing, and his hands were tied to an upright post. The back, buttocks, and legs were flogged either by two soldiers (lictors) or by one who alternated positions. The severity of the scourging depended on the disposition of the lictors and was intended to weaken the victim to a state just short of collapse or death. Although the severity of the scourging is not discussed in the four gospel accounts, a detailed word study of the ancient Greek text for this verse indicates that the scourging of Jesus was particularly harsh. It is not known whether the number of lashes was limited to 39, in accordance with Jewish law. As the Roman soldiers repeatedly struck the victim's back with full force, the iron balls would cause deep contusions, and the leather thongs and sheep bones would cut into the skin and underlying tissues. Then, as the flogging continued, the lacerations would tear into the underlying skeletal muscles and produce quivering ribbons of bleeding flesh, often until the internal organs were visible. Soon, the entire area is an unrecognizable mass of torn, bleeding tissue. Historically, the lictors would often continue flogging even after the victim had gone unconscious, providing they could feel a sufficient pulse. When it is determined by the centurion in charge that the prisoner is near death, the beating is finally stopped. Pain and blood loss generally set the stage for circulatory shock. The extent of blood loss may well have determined how long the victim would survive on the cross.

Even the scene from The Passion of the Christ does not do justice to the gruesomeness of the practice.

Mark 15: 16The soldiers led Jesus away into the palace (that is, the Praetorium) and called together the whole company of soldiers. 17They put a purple robe on him, then twisted together a crown of thorns and set it on him. 18And they began to call out to him, "Hail, king of the Jews!" 19Again and again they struck him on the head with a staff and spit on him. Falling on their knees, they paid homage to him. 20And when they had mocked him, they took off the purple robe and put his own clothes on him. Then they led him out to crucify him.

Isaiah 50: 5 The Sovereign LORD has opened my ears, and I have not been rebellious; I have not drawn back. 6 I offered my back to those who beat me, my cheeks to those who pulled out my beard; I did not hide my face from mocking and spitting.

After the scourging, the soldiers often taunted their victim. The Roman cohort or company was probably 400 to 600 soldiers. The Roman soldiers, amused that this weakened man had claimed to be a king, began to mock him by placing a robe on his shoulders, a crown of thorns on his head, and a wooden staff as a scepter in his right hand. Next, they spat on Jesus and struck him on the head with the wooden staff. Moreover, when the soldiers tore the robe from Jesus' back, they probably reopened the scourging wounds that had clotted with the fabric.

Isaiah 52:14: Just as there were many who were appalled at him, his appearance was so disfigured beyond that of any man and his form marred beyond human likeness.

Some have said that Christ was unrecognizable as to who he was, but the meaning here of the last phrase seems to indicate that Christ was so disfigured at the time of crucifixion that he would not even have been recognized as a human being.

The severe scourging, with its intense pain and appreciable blood loss, most probably left Jesus in a pre-shock state. Moreover, hematidrosis had rendered his skin particularly tender. The physical and mental abuse meted out by the Jews and the Romans, as well as the lack of food, water, and sleep, also contributed to his generally weakened state. Therefore, even before the actual crucifixion, Jesus' physical condition was at least serious and possibly critical.

Matthew 27:31 After they had mocked Him, they took the scarlet robe off Him and put His own garments back on Him, and led Him away to crucify Him. 32 As they were coming out, they found a man of Cyrene named Simon, whom they pressed into service to bear His cross. 33 And when they came to a place called Golgotha, which means Place of a Skull, 34 they gave Him wine to drink mixed with gall; and after tasting it, He was unwilling to drink.

Crucifixion Practices: Crucifixion probably first began among the Persians. Alexander the Great introduced the practice to Egypt and Carthage, and the Romans appear to have learned of it from the Carthaginians. Although the Romans did not invent crucifixions they perfected it as a form of torture and capital punishment that was designed to produce a slow death with maximum pain and suffering. It was one of the most disgraceful and cruel methods of execution and usually was reserved only for slaves, foreigners, revolutionaries, and the vilest of criminals. Roman law usually protected Roman citizens from crucifixion, except perhaps in the case of desertion by soldiers. It was customary for the condemned man to carry his own cross from the flogging post to the site of crucifixion outside the city walls. He was usually naked, unless this was prohibited by local customs. Since the weight of the entire cross was probably well over 300 lb., only the crossbar was carried. The patibulum, weighing 75 to 125 lb. was placed across the nape of the victim's neck and balanced along both shoulders. Usually, the outstretched arms were then were tied to the crossbar. The processional to the site of crucifixion was led by a complete Roman military guard, headed by a centurion. One of the soldiers carried a sign (titulus) on which the condemned man's name and crime were displayed. Later, the titulus would be attached to the top of the cross. The scourging prior to crucifixion served to weaken the condemned man and, if blood loss was considerable, to produce hypotension and even shock. When the victim was thrown to the ground on his back, in preparation for transfixion of the hands, his scourging wounds most likely would become torn open again and contaminated with dirt. Furthermore, with each respiration, the painful scourging wounds would be scraped against the rough wood of the stipes. As a result, blood loss from the back probably would continue throughout the crucifixion ordeal. The criminal was then thrown to the ground on his back, with his arms outstretched along the patibulum. The hands could be nailed or tied to the crossbar, but nailing apparently was preferred by the Romans. The archaeological remains of a crucified body, found in an ossuary near Jerusalem and dating from the time of Christ, indicate that the nails were tapered iron spikes approximately 5 to 7 in long with a square shaft 3/8 inch across. Furthermore, ossuary findings and the Shroud of Turin have documented that the nails commonly were driven through the wrists rather than the palms. With arms outstretched but not taut, the wrists were nailed to the patibulum. It has been shown that the ligaments and bones of the wrist can support the weight of a body hanging from them, but the palms cannot. The driven nail would crush or sever the rather large median nerve. The stimulated nerve would produce excruciating bolts of fiery pain in both arms. Although the severed median nerve would result in paralysis of a portion of the hand, the impalement of various ligaments by the iron spike might produce a claw like grasp. When the nailing was completed, the titulus was attached to the cross, by nails or cords, just above the victim's head. His conviction: “King of the Jews.” Little did they know that was EXACTLY why He was crucified. That was his so-called sentence. The soldiers and the civilian crowd often taunted and jeered the condemned man, and the soldiers customarily divided up his clothes among themselves. Not uncommonly, insects would light upon or burrow into the open wounds or the eyes, ears, and nose of the dying and helpless victim, and birds of prey would tear at these sites. At the site of execution, by law, the victim was given a bitter drink of wine mixed with myrrh (gall) as a mild analgesic, but in the case of Christ, it was refused. The major effect of crucifixion, beyond the excruciating pain, was a marked interference with normal respiration, particularly exhalation. The weight of the body, pulling down on the outstretched arms and shoulders, would tend to fix the intercostal muscles in an inhalation state and thereby hinder passive exhalation. Accordingly, exhalation was primarily diaphragmatic, and breathing was shallow. It is likely that this form of respiration would not suffice and that carbon dioxide in the lungs would soon result. The onset of muscle cramps or tetanic contractions, due to fatigue and carbon dioxide, would hinder respiration even further. Adequate exhalation required lifting the body by pushing up on the feet and by flexing the elbows and adducting the shoulders. However, this maneuver would place the entire weight of the body on the tarsals and would produce searing pain. Furthermore, flexion of the elbows would cause rotation of the wrists about the iron nails and cause fiery pain along the damaged median nerves. Lifting of the body would also painfully scrape the scourged back against the rough wooden stipes. Muscle cramps of the outstretched and uplifted arms would add to the discomfort. As a result, each respiratory effort would become agonizing and tiring and lead eventually to asphyxia. The length of survival generally ranged from three or four hours to three or four days and appears to have been inversely related to the severity of the scourging. However, even if the scourging had been relatively mild, the Roman soldiers could hasten death by breaking the legs below the knees. The quick death of Christ possibly indicates then the severity of the scourging.

Chag Sameach

Tonight I walked through the Jewish quarter to the Western Wall. Around every corner was another family in their best dress walking to and from the Wall and their synagogues. At the Western Wall various groups were singing and marching together. A smile on every face indicated that this holiday is truly unlike the other holidays for it is a festival! On my way back I wandered through the Old City imagining the fathers on the other side of the house walls reading the Exodus story to their children - for it is actually a commandment to commemorate the Passover story. A boy about my age approached me and asked me if I would ring the doorbell to his dormitory since he is not allowed to push the button that ignites a flame of electricity in the switch on this joyful Shabbat. Even this was a reminder of the joyful peace that one has, the rest that God has granted to his people. As the families parted and walked to their homes they greeted each other with "Chag Sameach" - "Joyous festival."

Palm Sunday

The lack of internet for the last 48 hours has been a time of celebration here in Jerusalem, as well as an opportunity to prepare for this mornings exam. I hope that you were bathed in celebration of the Triumphal entry of Yeshua yesterday. My day was full of festivities.

Now when they drew near to Jerusalem and came to Bethphage, to the Mount of Olives, then Jesus sent two disciples, saying to them, Go into the village in front of you, and immediately you will find a donkey tied, and a colt with her. Untie them and bring them to me. If anyone says anything to you, you shall say, The Lord needs them, and he will send them at once. This took place to fulfill what was spoken by the prophet, saying, Say to the daughter of Zion, Behold, your king is coming to you, humble, and mounted on a donkey, and on a colt, the foal of a beast of burden. The disciples went and did as Jesus had directed them. They brought the donkey and the colt and put on them their cloaks, and he sat on them. Most of the crowd spread their cloaks on the road, and others cut branches from the trees and spread them on the road. And the crowds that went before him and that followed him were shouting, Hosanna to the Son of David! Blessed is he who comes in the name of the Lord! Hosanna in the highest! And when he entered Jerusalem, the whole city was stirred up, saying, Who is this? And the crowds said, This is the prophet Jesus, from Nazareth of Galilee.

I joined thousands of believers from across the globe in a parade from Bethpage to the Mount of Olives into the walls of Jerusalem. Drums, guitars, flutes, brass, and many different languages joined in joyful song. Crowd control officers with rubber bullets and body armor reminded us of those who were afraid of the crowds – expecting the violent revolt of a Messiah come to free Israel. As I walked along with different groups of the parade I was struck with a lack a communication between fellow believers. Yet along with that lack of communication was an abundance of “Hoshana!” for we were gathering to remember the same Lord and King. Along the way curious people poked their heads out of their windows and both Jewish and Arab children waved to the throng. The mile procession took over 2 hours, but not a dull moment was present.

Later that evening I went with a group to Samaria, where we observed the sacrificial activities of the Samaritan Passover (view summary here). Dozens of lambs were slaughtered in a ceremony that even Jews come to watch in remembrance of their own historical tradition. To be honest, it was a bit hard to see this as something God called a particular people to do at a particular time in history. One can dispute the correctness of the Samaritan version or discount the detailed and expansive tradition into a mere foreshadowing of Christ, but the gruesomeness of death as penalty for sin is ever present.

The activities of this week come together in a special way. It is not very often that Jewish, Christian, and Arab Passovers come together in the calendared year like this. To experience the meaning of so many remembrances and celebrations is a privilege and pleasure unparalleled.

Clammy Hands

Matthew 19:

See, we are going up to Jerusalem. And the Son of Man will be delivered over to the chief prists and scribes, and they will condemn him to death and deliver him over to the Gentiles to be mocked and flogged and crucified, and he will be raised on the third day. Then the mother of the sons of Zebedee came up to him with her sons, and kneeling before him she asked him for something. And he said to her, What do you want? She said to him, Say that these two sons of mine are to sit, one at your right hand and one at your left, in your kingdom. Jesus answered, You do not know what you are asking. Are you able to drink the cup that I am to drink? They said to him, We are able. He said to them, You will drink my cup, but to sit at my right hand and at my left is not mine to grant, but it is for those for whom it has been prepared by my Father. And when the ten heard it, they were indignant at the two brothers. But Jesus called them to him and said, You know that the rulers of the Gentiles lord it over them, and their great ones exercise authority over them. It shall not be so among you. But whoever would be great among you must be your servant, and whoever would be first among you must be your slave, even as the Son of Man came not to be served but to serve, and to give his life as a ransom for many.

Tonight I was struck with the thought of Jesus looking ahead only a week. Everywhere he turns people around him are reminding him of what is to come. Mary anoints him with oil as king. The rich young ruler asks him how to obtain eternal life. I imagined how clammy my hands get as I look ahead to a competition or other event of nervousness. That impatient waiting for something that is coming to fast. The feeling of not wanting it to come, yet wanting to finish the task at hand. Lazarus has been raised from the dead. He has been teaching the Pharisees about the kingdom. The Jews are accusing him. All the while, He knows exactly what is to come.

Jordan Day 4

The final stop of our final day of our final physical settings field study was one of endings and beginnings. We climbed atop Mt. Nebo and read the end of Deuteronomy looking in the directions of Gilead, Dan, Ephraim and Menaseh, Judah, and the Negev. Across the Northern end of the dead sea we were even able to pick out the towers on the Mount of Olives - something Dr. Wright says he has only seen about 2 other times out of the tens of times he has been here.

Dr. Wright spoke of Moses leading the people from a prosperous place through the uninhabited uncultivated wilderness. Coming up to this place he would have looked on to more wilderness - more rough uncultivated land. Yet Moses trusted in God - the one who had led and provided for them through the last 40 years, the one who had blessed them with His law and chosen them as His people.

I have seen more of God's faithfulness this semester. Now as it draws to a close I look across the river as the Israelites did into the unknown, trusting in the God who has proven faithful. I have more information to back my understanding of the BIble. I have more pictures in my mind to illustrate the Biblical narrative. I have a better idea of the sights, smells, and tastes of the text. Most importantly i have just a bit better understanding of who God is and I have begun to follow him a bit more closely. As He has been, He forever will be.

Jordan Day 3

We began this third day of our field study at the much anticipated Petra. Its interesting that so many tourists look forward to this mystery place where the sights outweigh the teeter totter of knowledge. It seems that almost nothing is known about this place, though we have concluded that it may have been an important city if not the capital of the Nabataean kingdom.

In our time at Petra we were able to trek into the treasury, the most famous building on the site. After that we went up to the high place lookout with a three hundred and sixty degree view of the surrounding sandstone mountains and valleys. Around every corner of rock was a new beautiful view as we headed to the more recent monastery which was built on a high face and very similar to the treasury though not as ornate. It was grand to trek around this amazing feat wondering what kind of power structure was in place to build these works of art, chiseling such masterpieces right out of the stone.

Our second and final stop of the day was one in which the knowledge outweighed the site on the balancing teeter totter. In fact, this thriving Edomite capital of Busera was virtually unexcavated. What had been a surpassing kingdom capital to the City of David at Jerusalem, was marked with a hand drawn sign today.

This site was marked with many passages of Scripture that brought the unexcavated tel to life. Isaiah 34 and 63 allowed us to picture the thriving town of sheep and goat herders with grapes and wine presses on their city slopes. Ezekiel 27 made us picture the camel caravans coming in and out of this desert port. We finished the spot reading the entire book of Obadiah watching how it described this solid city on a hill, growing right out of the rocky crop. This thriving city was no match for Yahweh, the God who works in mysterious ways.

(the view from our hotel that night was perfect for a desert sunset)

Jordan Day 2

The last night in a beautiful hotel of wonderful accommodations had me feeling much better by the morning. Omlettes made to order was a highlight of my stay in the booming city of Amman.

We were reminded at our first stop that Amman has not always been a booming metropolis. In fact, the lack of water supply has made it hard for this location since its roots. In other ways, the site is similar to Jerusalem. It is on a spur with valleys on three sides. It also is just east of the watershed ridge like Jerusalem. A modern museum in the remains of the citadel holds some very interesting artifacts. The oldest human sculpture is that of a body with 2 heads - reference to the Biblical narrative of a male and female person.

One of our final stops was a mystery location. It was interesting to come to a site trying to consider the possible history based merely on the topography and showing structures. While some rough ideas were concluded it was nothing compared to the information given by those that have studied and researched the archeology and history of the locale. What we considered a Hellenistic palace turned out to be Tobias' Tyre, the palace of a want-to-be king.

On our way to Petra, we watched a blatant propaganda film about Jordan and its king. It was funny to see such straightforward propaganda but also interesting to consider what truths were mixed with the desires of the king to portray his land in a particular way. Is such filmography all that different from the showy building projects of Herod the Great?

Jordan Day 1

We began this field study early, leaving campus at 6:00 am. Within 2 hours we were at the border between Israel and the Hashemite Kingdom of Israel, where no pictures are allowed. This was my first border crossing by land and it proved tedious. Randomness is the key for their security which makes the process take anywhere from a half hour to a few hours. After passport control in Israel we had to go through the same process for the Jordanian officials. After a short bit we were off in our brand new (I got in trouble for leaning against the water cooler and then again for putting my foot on an armrest) bus and Jordanian tour guide.

I was impressed with the similarity of transjordan to that which I have been seeing for the last 2 months in Israel. It is true that the land base of these two locales is very identical though their histories are also diverse in many ways.

Our first stop was at Deir-Alla/Succoth, the alluvial fan between the Northern and Southern domes of Gilead. This place became the most dominant tel in the region, an independent town caught in the middle. In Judges chapter eight we read of the Midianites coming here and pushing farther in and through Israel. Gideon, however comes to the rescue pushing them back up the Jabbok wadi, visible from thsi tel. The slag found here proves the prominence of this city as a metal foundry, using the tin from Europe and the Copper from Finan for Bronze. Dr. Wright gave interesting insight to the Biblical narrative, noting that this place may be the reason that the Philistines pushed through Judah and Israel. If they had a monopoly on metal as the reference indicates in I Samuel, then such a move through an insignificant mouse country makes sense. Unfortunately after this stop lack of sleep coupled with the winding Jordanian roads made the rest of the day a gut-wrenching(literally) blur in my mind. I only remember the amazing prices of snacks at the supermarket and free doughnuts from Planet Doughnut in the modern metropolis of Amman.

A visit from Mom

What a JOY to see my Mom last week. I took a bus to Ma'agan on the southern end of the Sea of Galilee last week Wednesday night. After a joyful reunion, I joined the Radford tour heading back to Jerusalem Thursday and through Bethlehem and a few Jerusalem spots on Friday.

It was interesting to have the "tourist" experience. After 2 months here I still feel mostly like a tourist. I know how to manage the bus system, to negotiate a deal with the taxi driver, and to put on the face that keeps the city shop owners from pleading with me to buy their chinese wares. Yet most places I visit are still new. Nevertheless, our time with our Israelie tour guide, Gideon Shor, was very different that from my weekly field studies with Dr. Wright. It was fascinating to see him explain things, avoiding certain facts for lack of time and adding more insights to understandings that have been growing in my mind over the last weeks.

A highlight of my time with Mom was on Friday morning. We met near the old city and walked to a coffee shop, grabbing coffee just in time to watch the sunrise and the buzzing activity of the Western Wall. After that we went to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. I explained my fascination and love for this "Holy Ground" where political, cultural, and religious controversy meet. From the ladder above the door (that hasn't been moved for years because no one know who has the right to move it) to the Muslim key holder (who unlocks the door to an Orthodox and Catholic premises where people from many faiths make pilgrimage) there is a foundation of tradition intertwined like a beautiful jumbled mess.

We took our time through the place where tradition marks the location of the cross, the place of the preparation of Jesus' body for burial, the different foundations of this millennium-old church, and the empty Sepulcher which marks the resurrection. We stopped there to read the story and I "randomly" chose Johns narrative. It was clearly no accident as I was choked up reading "Woman, behold your son. Son, behold your mother." I had not before seen the way that John focuses on Mary, the mother of our Lord. I believe tears were in both of our eyes as I finished,

"But Mary stood weeping outside the tomb, and as she wept she stooped to look into the tomb. And she saw two angels in white, sitting where the body of Jesus had lain, one at the head and one at the feet. They said to her, Woman, why are you weeping? She said to them, They have taken away my Lord, and I do not know where they have laid him. Having said this, she turned around and saw Jesus standing."